It was a dark and stormy night. Without a sound, the study door began to slowly swing open until it struck the wall with a soft “clunk.” A rush of cold air entered the room, sending chills up my spine. Was this the spirit of a long-dead lodger, a disembodied specter, or the ghost of Christmas bills past due?
Doors seeming to open or close of themselves might be the source of at least some if not most of the reports of ghosts and hauntings over the many centuries to the present. It’s a common phenomenon with a cause based squarely in the world of the living. It’s even got a name: ghosting.
Part 1 covered the ins and outs of properly installing an interior pre-hung door. This post covers some of the idiosyncratic issues associated with doors, their diagnosis and repair, and how to retrofit a new door slab to an existing jamb.
Doors that ghost are leaning, perhaps imperceptibly, as a result of shoddy installation or natural movement of the structure over time. Fixing doors that ghost can be a bit of a project, but worth the effort to eliminate the annoyance and potential embarrassment of a door opening unexpectedly, especially a bathroom door…
Believe it or not, I have two doors in my home that ghost open. And, yes, one of them is a bathroom door. The other is a bedroom door. The bedroom door also does not latch when closed against the stop. We’ll fix that, also, but first let’s exorcise the ghost.
Fixing a door that ghosts can be as easy as removing the middle (or top) hinge pin, supporting it between two scraps of wood and striking it with a hammer. This action puts a slight bend in the pin; when reinserted in the hinge, the bend creates just enough friction to overcome the tendency for gravity to open (or close) the door. Because of its simplicity, it’s worth trying a second hammer blow to make a larger bend; just don’t take it to the extreme of bending it into a “C” or “U.”
If the lean angle is significant, the above technique might not work to stop the door’s movement. Now comes the fun part:
Carefully pry the casing away from both sides of the door and remove it. You’ll want to slice the paint seams with a razor knife to avoid tearing away paint, etc. Taking time and care to do this will avoid damaging the trim pieces and allow you to put them back neatly when done. Remove nails from the jamb; the nails that stay in the molding can be reinserted in their holes when replacing the casing. (Hey, I made a rhyme…)
Now you have the area around the door jamb exposed. If there are issues with the door slab not touching the stops evenly all the way around (see Part 1), now is the opportunity to fix that as well.
Note which way gravity is causing the door to swing. Move both jamb legs to make the door plumb; use a long level to find plumb. It should now not ghost. You might have to split and remove shims to free up the jamb to move. Keep the nails in place; they will hold the structure and bend enough to move the jambs plumb. Replace the shims snugly, add a new nail or two, replace the casing and take the dog for a walk. Good boy!
The bedroom door doesn’t latch because the bolt doesn’t line up with the hole in the strike plate. The easiest way to make them line up is to take off the strike plate, make the hole in the jamb larger in the location it needs to be, cut the mortise for the plate in the new location with a utility knife and/or sharp chisel and attach the plate with screws in the new location. (Old screw holes causing problems? See below…) You can dress up the old mortise cut with wood filler.
On the other hand, it would be a great learning experience to remove the problem door from its rough opening and reinstall it following these guidelines in Part 1. There is no better teacher than experience.
A replacement slab door should be sized precisely based on the old door it is replacing. Measure the height, width and thickness of the old door slab. The direction of swing and “handedness” (left or right) can easily be determined by simply backing your rear end up to where the so-called butt hinges are on the jamb and noting whether the door swings to the left or right.
This is called the “butt-to-butt” method for obvious reasons. When you put in the order for the new slab, this information will save mistakes and misunderstandings. Also, a picture is worth a thousand words: Make a plan drawing (“bird’s-eye view”) of the room and door and take that with you to the door store. (Whoops, I did it again…)
To digress: The absolute simplest, fool-proof way to ensure an accurate replica of the former door is to give it to the fabricator/lumber yard/door store which is supplying your new door. Then, it’s all on them and nothing can be lost in translation.
If you are doing the mortises for the hinges, measure their locations carefully on the old door and duplicate them on the new door slab. The lockset borings will probably also be duplicated, but check the specs (there I go again) that come with your new lockset hardware. A spade bit is used to bore the bolt hole in the edge of the door, 7/8″ or 1″ diameter depending on the specifications of your lockset. The handle hole requires a hole saw of the correct diameter, usually 2 1/8″. Start the big hole on one side; bore through until only the pilot bit comes through the other side. Now cut the hole from the other side using the pilot bit hole to avoid blowing out (splitting) the wood when the hole saw emerges.
Hinge mortises can be drawn with pencil and cut out free-hand with a trim router set at a depth equal to the thickness of the hinge leaf. Use a straight bit of the same radius as the corners of the hinges to route the round corners easily. Square corners can be cut out after routing with a knife or chisel.
The face plate on the latch assembly requires mortising as well; this is best done with a razor knife to cut the outline, and a sharp chisel to remove the wood to depth. No face plate — just a round insert? Skip this step.
Bore hinge screw holes with a drill bit smaller than the hinge screws; the screw holes should not be deep or large to ensure the screws get a good bite on the wood. I’ve install umpteen doors that came from the factory with screws that were spun in their holes from overzealous workers using a drill motor to tighten the screws on a Friday afternoon trying to finish up before the corner bar fills up with hockey fans watching the big game. Oh Canada.
If you encounter a screw or two (I can’t stop myself) that spins as you tighten it, the fix is easy and reliable: Grab some wooden toothpicks from the local bar; remove the loose screw; add copious amounts of carpenter’s glue to the hole and toothpicks; jam the toothpicks tightly into the hole; break or cut off the toothpicks; replace and tighten (not over-tighten) the screw; go back and finish your beer.
A door that rattles when closed needs a simple fix; the bolt and strike plate are mismatched. Look inside the strike plate hole; see the metal tab? If it has a slot, take a slot screwdriver and gently pry the metal tab “out” a tad.
No slot? Remove the strike plate and use pliers to bend the tab a tad (that’s more alliteration than rhyme, but who says poetry has to rhyme?) The door should now close with a little shove and a soft “clunk.”
(If a door opens by itself in an empty house, does it make a sound? Yes. Clunk.)
Finally, here is a short list of related issues that will keep your interior doors working perfectly long into the future:
- Avoid hanging anything on the door, like clothes racks and children. Sagging and loose hinge screws will ensue.
- Lubricate moving parts occasionally.
- If the door begins to rub or stick, fix it right; don’t butcher the door with a saw!
- Declaw your pets; better still, train them, except cats, which is impossible.
- Keep a key or unlocking tool handy to avoid having to tear down the door to free someone like that guy at the Olympics.
- On painted doors, install with a bit wider reveal to prevent sticking as you add more layers of paint over the years.
- If your bathroom door opens by itself unexpectedly, keep the lights off while you’re in there.
More on doors (this is getting old) later.